| Monday, July, 2d.Clear and cooler. Pleasant drive in
the afternoon, on the lake
shore. The midsummer
flowers are beginning to
open. Yellow evening
primrose, purple rose-raspberry;
the showy
willow-herb, with its pyramid
of lilac flowers;
the red and the yellow
lilies. We observed,
also, a handsome strawberry
blite, with its
singular fruit-like crimson
heads; this flower
is not uncommon in new
lands, in the western
part of the State, and
is probably a native,
though precisely similar
to that of Europe.
The track over which we
passed this afternoon,
and where we found the
blite, has been recently
opened through the forest.
Observed many birds. The goldfinches were
in little flocks as usual, and purple-finches
flew across our road more than once; quarrelsome
king-birds were sitting on the shrubs and
plants along the bank, watching the wild
bees, perhaps; for they are said to devour
these as greedily as those of the hive.
Some of them were skimming over the lake
in pursuit of other game, being very partial
also to the tribe of water insects. Saw
another bird not often met with, a red-start;
unlike the European red-start, which often
builds about houses, the American bird of
the same tribe is very shy, and only seen
in the forest. The one we observed this
evening was flitting about in a young grove
upon the borders of a brook; his red and
black plumage, and flirting tail, showing
here and there among the foliage.
Tuesday, 3d..... We had, for several weeks, been
planning a visit to Farmer B's; our
good friend, his step-mother, having given
us a very warm invitation to spend the day
with her. Accordingly, we set off in the
morning, after breakfast, and drove to the
little village of B Green, where we
arrived about noon. Here the coachman stopped
to water his horses, and make some inquiries
about the road.
"Do you know where B's folks live?"
he asked of a man in the yard.
"Yes, sir; B's folks live three miles
from here."
"Which road must I take?"
"Straight ahead. Turn to the left when you
come to the brick school-house; then take
the right when you get to the gunsmith's
shop, and any of the neighbors about will
tell you which is B's house."
The directions proved correct. We soon reached
the school-house; then came the gunsmith's
shop, and a
few more turnings brought us in front of
the low, gray farm-house, the object of our
morning's drive. Here a very cordial and
simple greeting awaited us, and we passed
the day most agreeably.
. . . . .
How pleasant things look about a farm-house!
There is always much that is interesting
and respectable connected with every better
labor, every useful or harmless occupation
of man. We esteem some trades for their
usefulness, we admire others for their ingenuity,
but it seems natural to like a farm, or a
garden, beyond most workshops.
From the window of the room in which we were
sitting, we looked over the whole of Mr.
B's farm; the wheat-field, corn-field,
orchard, potato-patch, and buckwheat-field.
The farmer himself, with his wagon and horses,
a boy and a man, were busy in a hay-field,
just below the house; several cows were feeding
in the meadow, and about fifty sheep were
nibbling on the hill-side. A piece of woodland
was pointed out on the height above, which
supplied the house with fuel. We saw no
evergreens there; the trees were chiefly
maple, birch, oak, and chestnut; with us,
about the lake, every wood contains hemlock
and pine.
Finding we were interested in rural matters,
our good friend offered to show us whatever
we wished to see, answering all our many
questions with the sweet, old smile peculiar
to herself. She took us to the little garden;
it contained potatoes, cabbages, onions,
cucumbers, and beans; and a row of currant-bushes
was the only fruit; a patch of catnip, and
another of mint, grew in one corner. Our
farmers, as a general rule, are proverbially
indifferent about their gardens. There was
no fruit on the place besides the apple-trees
of the orchard; one is surprised that cherries,
and pears, and plums, all suited to our hilly
climate in this county, should not receive
more attention; they yield a desirable return
for the cost and labor required to plant
and look after them.
Passing the barn, we looked in there also;
a load of sweet hay had just been thrown
into the loft, and another was coming up
the road at the moment. Mr. B worked
his farm with a pair of horses only, keeping
no oxen. Half a dozen hens and some geese
were the only poultry in the yard; the eggs
and feathers were carried, in the fall, to
the store at B Green, or sometimes
as far as our own village.
They kept four cows; formerly they had a
much larger dairy; but our hostess had counted
her threescore and ten, and being the only
woman in the house the dairy-work of four
cows, she said, was as much as she could
well attend to. One would think so; for
she also did all the cooking, baking, washing,
ironing, and cleaning for the family, consisting
of three persons; besides a share of the
sewing, knitting, and spinning. We went
into her little buttery; here the bright
tin pans were standing full of rich milk;
everything was thoroughly scoured, beautifully
fresh, and neat. A stone jar of fine yellow
butter, whose flavor we knew of old, stood
on one side, and several cheeses were in
press. The wood-work was all painted red.
While our kind hostess, on hospitable thought
intent, was preparing something nice for
tea, we were invited to look about the little
sitting-room, and see "farm ways" in that
shape. It was both parlor and guest-chamber
at the same time. In one corner stood a
maple bedstead,
with a large, plump feather bed on it, and
two tiny pillows in well-bleached cases at
the head. The walls of the room were whitewashed,
the wood-work was unpainted, but so thoroughly
scoured, that it had acquired a sort of polish
and oak color. Before the window hung colored
paper blinds. Between the windows stood
a table, and over it hung a small looking-glass,
and a green and yellow drawing in water colors,
the gift of a friend. On one side stood
a cherry bureau; upon this lay the Holy Bible,
and that its sacred pages had been well studied,
our friend's daily life could testify. Near
the Bible lay a volume of religious character
from the Methodist press, and the Life of
General Marion. The mantel-piece was ornamented
with peacocks' feathers, and brass candlesticks
bright as gold; in the fireplace were fresh
sprigs of asparagus. An open cupboard stood
on one side, containing the cups and saucers,
in neat array, a pretty salt-cellar, with
several pieces of cracked and broken crockery,
of a superior quality, preserved for ornament
more than use.
As our dear hostess was coming and going,
dividing her time between her biscuits and
her guests, very impartially, we asked permission
to follow her, and sit by her while she was
at work, admiring the kitchen quite as much
as we did the rest of her neat dwelling.
The largest room in the house, and the one
most used, it was just as neat as every other
corner under the roof. The chimney was very
large, according to the approved old custom,
and it was garnished all about with flat-irons,
brooms, brushes, holders, and cooking utensils,
each in its proper place. In winter, they
used a stove for cooking, and in the very
coldest weather, they keep two fires burning,
one in the chimney, another in the stove.
The walls were whitewashed. There was a
great deal of wood-work about the roomwainscoting,
dressers, and even the ceiling being of woodand
all was painted dark red. The ceiling of
a farm-kitchen, especially if it be unplastered,
as this was, is often a pretty rustic sight,
a sort of store-place, all kinds of things
hanging there on hooks or nails driven into
the beams; bundles of dried herbs, strings
of red peppers and of dried apples hanging
in festoons, tools of various kinds, bags
of different sorts and sizes, golden ears
of seed-corn ripening, vials of physic and
nostrums for man and beast, bits of cord
and twine, skeins of yarn and brown thread
just spun, and lastly, a file of newspapers.
The low red ceiling of Farmer B's kitchen
was not quite so well garnished in July as
we have seen it at other times, still, it
was by no means bare, the festoons of apples,
red peppers, and Indian corn being the only
objects wanting. By the window hung an ink
bottle and a well-fingered almanac, witty
and wise, as usual. A year or two since,
an edition of the almanac was printed without
the usual prognostics regarding the winds
and sunshine, but it proved a complete failure;
an almanac that told nothing about next year's
weather nobody cared to buy, and it was found
expedient to restore these important predictions
concerning the future snow, hail and sunshine
of the county. Public opinion demanded it.
A great spinning-wheel, with a basket of
carded wool, stood in a corner, where it
had been set aside when we arrived. There
was a good deal of spinning done in the family;
all the yarn for stockings, for flannels,
for the cloth worn by the men, for the colored
woolen dresses of the women, and all the
thread for their coarse toweling, was spun
in the house by our hostess, or
her grand-daughter, or some neighbor hired
for the purpose. Formerly, there had been
six step-daughters in the family, and then,
not only all the spinning, but the weaving
and dyeing also, were done at home. They
must have been notable women, those six step-daughters;
we heard some great accounts of day's spinning
and weaving done by them. The presses and
cupboards of the house were still full to
overflowing with blankets, white and colored
flannels, colored twill coverlets for bedding,
besides sheets, tablecloths, and patched
bed-quilts, all their own work. In fact,
almost all the clothing of the family, for
both men and women, and everything in the
shape of bedding and toweling used by the
household, was home-made. Very few dry-goods
were purchased by them; hats and shoes, some
light materials for caps and collars, a little
ribbon, and a printed calico now and then,
seemed to be all they bought. Nor was this
considered at all remarkable; such is the
common way of living in many farmers' families.
It has been calculated that a young woman
who knows how to spin and weave can dress
herself with ease and comfort, as regards
everything necessary, for twelve dollars
a year, including the cost of the raw materials;
the actual allowance for clothing made by
the authorities of this county, to farmers'
daughters, while the property remained undivided,
has been fifteen dollars, and the estimate
is said to have included everything necessary
for comfort, both winter and summer clothing.
The wives and daughters of our farmers are
very often notable, frugal womenperhaps
one may say that they are usually so until
they go from home. With the young girls
about our villages, the case is very different;
these are often wildly extravagant in their
dress, and just as restless in following
the fashions as the richest fine lady in
the land. They often spend all they earn
in finery.
Very pretty woolen shawls were shown us,
made by our friend's step-daughters, after
Scotch patterns; several families of Scotch
emigrants had settled in the neighborhood
some thirty years since, and had furnished
their friends with the patterns of different
plaids; whether these were Highland or Lowland,
we could not say. Some of their twilled
flannels were also remarkably good in quality
and color, but these are apt to shrink in
washing. They are quite skilful dyers in
scarlet, orange, green, blue, and lilac.
With the maple leaves, they dye a very neat
gray for stockings, but most of their coloring
materials were purchased in the villages,
dyestuffs being an important part of the
stock in trade of all our country druggists.
Most of the spinning and weaving was in cotton
or wool; the clothing and bedding was wholly
of cotton or woolen materials. A certain
amount of tow was used for toweling, bagging,
smock frocks and pantaloons, for summer working
clothes for the men. From time to time,
a little flax was raised, especially to make
linen, chiefly for a few finer towels and
tablecloths, the luxuries of the household.
The food of the family, as well as their
clothing, was almost wholly the produce of
their own farm; they dealt but little with
either grocer or butcher. In the spring,
a calf was killed; in the fall, a sheep and
a couple of hogs; once in a while, at other
seasons, they got a piece of fresh meat from
some neighbor who had killed a beef or a
mutton. They rarely ate their poultry; the
hens were kept chiefly for eggs, and their
geese for feathers.
The common piece of meat, day after day,
was corned pork from their pork-barrel; they
usually kept, also, some corned beef in brine,
either from their own herd, or a piece procured
by some bargain with a neighbor. The bread
was made from their own wheat, and so were
the hoe-cakes and griddle-cakes from the
Indian meal and buckwheat of their growth.
Butter and cheese from their dairy were on
table at every meal, three times a day.
Pies were eaten very frequently, either of
apples, pumpkins, dried fruits, or coarse
minced-meat; occasionally they had pie without
any meat for their dinner; puddings were
rare; Yankee farmers generally eating much
more pastry than pudding. Mush and milk
was a common dish. They ate but few eggs,
reserving them for sale. Their vegetables
were almost wholly potatoes, cabbage, and
onions, with fresh corn and beans, when in
season, and baked beans with pork in winter.
Pickles were put on table at every meal.
Their sugar and molasses were made from maple,
only keeping a little white sugar for company
or sickness. They drank cider from their
own orchard. The chief luxuries of the household
were tea and coffee, both procured from the
"stores," although it may be doubted if the
tea ever saw China; if like much of that
drunk about the country, it was probably
of farm growth also.
While we were talking over these matters,
and others of a more personal nature, with
our gentle old hostess, several visitors
arrived;probably, on this occasion,
they came less to see the mistress of the
house than her carriage-load of strange company.
Be that as it may, we had the pleasure of
making several new acquaintances, and of
admiring some very handsome strings of gold
beads about their necks; a piece of finery
we had
not seen in a long while. Another fashion
was less pleasing. We observed that a number
of the women in that neighborhood had their
hair cropped short like men, a custom which
seems all but unnatural. Despite her seventy
years and the rheumatism, our hostess had
her dark hair smoothly combed and neatly
rolled up under a nice muslin cap, made after
the Methodist pattern. She was not one to
do anything unwomanly, though all B
Green set the fashion.
As we had a long drive before us, we were
obliged to say good-by early in the afternoon,
taking leave of our venerable friend with
those feelings of unfeigned regard and respect
which the good and upright alone excite.
After such a pleasant day, we had a charming
drive home, including even the long and slow
ascent of Briar Hill. The birds, perched
on the rails and bushes, sung us cheerfully
on our way. As we stopped at the tavern,
at the little hamlet of Old Oaks, to water
the horses, we found a long row of empty
wagons and buggies, drawn up before the house,
betokening a rustic merry-making in honor
of the eve of the "Fourth." A fiddle was
heard from an upper room, and we had scarcely
stopped before a couple of youths, in holiday
attire, stepped to the carriage, offering
to help us alight, "presuming the ladies
had come to the dance." Being informed of
their mistake, they were very civil, apologized,
and expressed their regrets. "They had hoped
the ladies were coming to the ball." We
thanked them, but were on our way to .
They bowed and withdrew, apparently rather
disappointed at the loss of a whole carriage
full of merry-makers, whom they had come
out to receive with so much alacrity. Dancing
was going on vigorously within; the dry,
ear-piercing scrape of a miserable violin
was
heard playing Zip Coon, accompanied by a
shrill boyish voice, half screaming, half
singing out his orders: "Gents, forward!""Ladies,
same!""Alla-maine left!""Sachay
all!""Swing to your partners!""Fling
your ladies opposyte!""Prummena-a-de
awl!" The directions were obeyed with great
energy and alacrity; for the scraping on
the floor equalled the scraping on the violin,
and the house fairly shook with the general
movement.
Half an hour more, over a familiar road,
brought us to the village, which we entered
just as the sun set.
Wednesday, 4th.Warm and pleasant. The sun, as usual
on this day, ushered in by great firing of
cannon, and ringing of bells, and hoisting
of flags. Many people in the village from
the country, all in holiday trim. Public
holidays, once in a while, are very pleasant;
it does one good to see everybody looking
their cleanest and gayest. It is really
a cheerful spectacle to watch the family
parties in wagon-loads coming into the village
at such times; old and young, fathers, mothers,
sons, daughters, and babies. Certainly we
Americans are very partial to gatherings
of all sorts; such an occasion is never thrown
away upon our good folk.
There was the usual procession at noon: a
prayer, reading the Declaration of Independence,
a speech, and dinner. The children of the
Sunday-school had also a little entertainment
of their own. Frequently there is a large
picnic party on the lake, with dancing, in
honor of the day, but this year there was
nothing of the kind. In the afternoon matters
seemed to drag a little; we met some of the
country people walking about the village,
looking in a rather doubtful state of enjoyment;
they reminded us of the inquiry of a pretty
little French child
at a party of pleasure, where things were
not going off very briskly; fixing her large
blue eyes earnestly on an elder sister's
face, she asked anxiously, "Eugénie, dis moi donc, est ce que
je m'amuse? " About dusk, however, we were enlivened
by the ascent of a paper balloon, and fire-works,
rockets, serpents, fire-balls, and though
not very remarkable, everybody went to see
them.
Thursday, 5th.Fine day. The locust-trees are in great
beauty. Their foliage never attains its
full size until the flowers have fallen;
it then has an after-growth, the leaves become
larger and richer, taking their own peculiar
bluish-green. The lower branches of a group
of young locusts before the door are now
sweeping the grass very beautifully. These
trees have never been trimmed; is not the
common practice of trimming our locusts a
mistake, unless one wishes for a tall tree
at some particular point? Few of our trees
throw out their branches so near the ground
as to sweep the turf in this way, and wherever
the habit is natural, the effect is very
pleasing.
Friday, 6th.Warm, half-cloudy day; light, fitful
airs, which set the leaves dancing here and
there without swaying the branches. Of
a still, summer's day, when the foliage generally
is quiet, the eye is at times attracted by
a solitary leaf, or a small twig dancing
merrily, as though bitten by a tarantula,
to say nothing of aspen leaves, which are
never at rest. The leaves of the maples,
on their long stalks, are much given to this
trick; so are the white birches, and the
scarlet oaks, and so is the fern also. This
fluttering is no doubt caused by some light
puff of air setting the leaf in motion, and
then dying away without any regular current
to follow
its course; the capricious movement continues
until the force of the impulse is exhausted,
and the giddy leaf has tired itself out.
At times the effect is quite singular, a
single leaf or two in rapid movement, all
else still and calm; and one might fancy
Puck, or some other mischievous elf, sitting
astride the stem, shaking his sides with
laughter at the expense of the bewildered
spectator.
Monday, 9th.Brilliant, warm weather. Thermometer
80 in the shade.
Walked in the woods; went in search of the
large two-leaved orchis, a particular plant,
which we have watched for several years,
as it is something of a rarity, having been
seen only in two places in the neighborhood.
We found the large, shining leaves lying
flat on the ground, in the well-known spot,
but some one had been there before us and
broken off the flower-stalk. The leaves
of this orchid are among the largest and
roundest in our woods.
The handsome, large purple-fringed orchis
is also found here. The country people call
it soldier's plume; it is one of our most
showy flowers.
This afternoon we rowed across Black-bird
Bay, and followed the shady western bank
some distance. Landed and gathered wild
flowers, meadow-sweet, white silk-weed, clematis,
and Alleghany vine, adlumia. This is the season for the climbing plants
to flower; they are usually later than their
neighbors. The Alleghany vine, with its
pale pink clusters and very delicate foliage,
is very common in some places, and so is
the clematis. Observed, also, several vines
of the glycine, Apios tuberosa, though its handsome purple flowers have
not yet appeared.
Wednesday, 11th.Very warm. Thermometer 89 in the coolest
position. Bright sunshine, with much air.
Long drive in the evening. The chestnuts
are in flower, and look beautiful. They
are one of our richest trees when in blossom,
and being common about the lake, are very
ornamental to the country, at this season;
they look as though they wore a double crown
of sunshine about their flowery heads. The
sumachs are also in bloom, their regular
yellowish spikes showing from every thicket.
The hay-makers were busy on many farms after
sunset this evening. There are fewer mowers
in the hayfields with us than in the Old
World. Four men will often clear a field
where, perhaps, a dozen men and women would
be employed in France or England. This evening
we passed a man with a horse-rake gathering
his hay together by himself. As we went
down the valley, he had just begun his task;
when we returned, an hour and a half later,
with the aid of this contrivance, he had
nearly done his job.
Friday, 13th.Very warm. Thermometer 92 in the shade,
with much air from the southwest. Though
very warm, and the power of the sun great,
yet the weather has not been close. We have
had fine airs constantly; often quite a breeze.
Drive down the valley in the evening. The
new-shorn meadows look beautiful, bordered
as they are in many places by the later elder-bushes,
now loaded with white flowers. The earlier
kind, which blooms in May, more common in
the woods, is already ripening its red berries.
About eight o'clock there was a singular
appearance in the heavens: a dark bow, very
clearly marked,
spanned the valley from east to west, commencing
at the point where the sun had just set,
the sky, at the same time, being apparently
cloudless. At one moment two other fainter
bows were seen; the principal arch was visible,
perhaps, half an hour, fading slowly away
with the twilight. Neither of our party
remembered to have seen anything like it.
In superstitious times it would doubtless
have been connected with some public calamity.
Saturday, 14th.A light shower this morning. Just
enough to lay the dust and refresh the air,
which now blows cool and moist from the northward.
Shaded, vapory sky; most grateful relief
after the hot sun and dry air of the last
ten days. No thunder or lightning.
Monday, 16th.Rather cooler; thermometer 79. Fine
day. Walked in the woods.
Found many of the Philadelphia, or orange
lilies, scattered about singly, as usual.
They like to grow in woods and groves, and
are often found among the fern. The Canadian,
or yellow lily, is also in flower, growing
in lower and more open grounds; a bit of
meadow-land on the border of one of our brooks
is now brilliantly colored with these handsome
flowers. The very showy Martagon, or Turk's-cap
lily, also belongs to our neighborhood.
Last summer a noble planta pyramid
of twenty red blossoms on one stalkwas
found growing in a marshy spot on the hill,
at the Cliffs.
Brought home a beautiful bunch of these orange
lilies, with the leaves of the sweet-fern,
and the white flowers of the fragrant early
wintergreen.
Tuesday, 17th.Rambled about Mill Island and the woods
beyond.
We are told that for some years after the
village was commenced, Mill Island was a
favorite resort of the Indians, who, at that
time, came frequently in parties to the new
settlement, remaining here for months together.
The island was then covered with wood, and
they seem to have chosen it for their camp,
in preference to other situations. Possibly
it may have been a place of resort to their
fishing and hunting parties when the country
was a wilderness. Now they come very seldom,
and singly, or in families, craving permission
to build a shanty of boughs or boards, in
order to ply their trade of basket-makers.
They no longer encamp on the island itself,
for the oak by the bridge is almost the only
tree standing on it, and they still love
the woods; but three out of four families
who have been here during the last ten years,
have chosen the neighboring groves for their
halting-place.
There are already many parts of this country
where an Indian is never seen. There are
thousands and hundreds of thousands of the
white population who have never laid eyes
upon a red man. But this ground lies within
the former bounds of the Six Nations, and
a remnant of the great tribes of the Iroquois
still linger about their old haunts, and
occasionally cross our path. The first group
that we chance to see strike us strangely,
appearing as they do in the midst of a civilized
community with the characteristics of their
wild race still clinging to them; and when
it is remembered that the land over which
they now wander as strangers, in the midst
of an alien race, was so lately their ownthe
heritage of their fathersit is impossible
to behold them without a feeling of peculiar
interest.
Standing at the window, one summer's afternoon,
our attention was suddenly fixed by three
singular figures
approaching the house. More than one member
of our household had never yet seen an Indian,
and unaware that any were in the neighborhood,
a second glance was necessary to convince
us that these visitors must belong to the
red race, whom we had long been so anxious
to see. They came slowly towards the door,
walking singly and silently, wrapped in blankets,
bareheaded and barefooted. Without knocking
or speaking, they entered the house with
a noiseless step, and stood silently near
the open door. We gave them a friendly greeting,
and they proved to be women of the Oneida
tribe, belonging to a family who had encamped
in the woods the day before, with the purpose
of selling their baskets in the village.
Meek in countenance, with delicate forms
and low voices, they had far more of the
peculiarities of the red race about them
than one would look for in a tribe long accustomed
to intercourse with the whites, and a portion
of whom have become more than half civilized.
Only one of the three could speak English,
and she seemed to do so with effort and reluctance.
They were dressed in gowns of blue calico,
rudely cut, coarsely stitched together, and
so short as to show their broadcloth leggings
worked with beads. Their heads were entirely
bare, their straight, black hair hanging
loose about their shoulders, and although
it was midsummer at the time, they were closely
wrapped in coarse white blankets. We asked
their names. "Wallee""Awa""Cootlee"was
the answer. Of what tribe? "Oneida," was
the reply, in a voice low and melancholy
as the note of the whip-poor-will, giving
the soft Italian sound to the vowels, and
four syllables to the word. They were delicately
made, of the usual height of American women,
and their features were good, without being
pretty. About their necks, arms, and ankles,
they wore strings of cheap ornaments, pewter
medals, and coarse glass beads, with the
addition of a few scraps of tin, the refuse
of some tin-shop passed on their way. One,
the grandmother, was a Christian; the other
two were Pagans. There was something startling
and very painful in hearing these poor creatures
within our own community, and under our own
roof, declaring themselves heathens! They
paid very little attention to the objects
about them, until the youngest of the three
observed a small Chinese basket on a table
near her. She rose silently, took the basket
in her hand, examined it carefully, made
a single exclamation of pleasure, and then
exchanged a few words with her companions
in their own wild but musical tongue. They
all seemed struck with this specimen of Chinese
ingenuity. They asked, as usual, for bread
and cold meat, and a supply was cheerfully
given them, with the addition of some cake,
about which they appeared to care very little.
In the mean time a messenger had been sent
to one of the shops of the village, where
toys and knicknacks for children were sold,
and he returned with a handful of copper
rings and brooches, pewter medals, and bits
of bright ribbons, which were presented to
our guests; the simple creatures looking
much gratified, as well as surprised, although
their thanks were brief, and they still kept
up the true Indian etiquette of mastering
all emotion. They were, indeed, very silent
and unwilling to talk, so that it was not
easy to gather much information from them;
but their whole appearance was so much more
Indian than we had been prepared for, while
their manners were so gentle and womanly,
so free from anything coarse or rude in the
midst of their untutored ignorance,
that we were much pleased with the visit.
Later in the day we went to their camp, as
they always call their halting-place; here
we found several children and two men of
the family. These last were evidently full-blooded
Indians, with every mark of their race stamped
upon them; but, alas! not a trace of the
"brave" about either. Both had that heavy,
sensual, spiritless expression, the stamp
of vice, so painful to behold on the human
countenance. They had thrown off the blanket
and were equipped in ragged coats, pantaloons,
and beavers, from the cast-off clothing of
their white neighbors, with the striking
addition, however, of bits of tin to match
those of the squaws. Some of these scraps
were fastened round their hats, others were
secured on their breasts and in the button-holes,
where the great men of the Old World wear
diamond stars and badges of honor. They
were cutting bows and arrows for the boys
of the village, of ash-wood, and neither
of them spoke to us; they either did not,
or would not understand our companion, when
addressed in English. The women and children
were sitting on the ground, busy with their
baskets, which they make very neatly, although
their patterns are all simple. They generally
dye the strips of ash with colors purchased
in the villages from the druggists, using
only now and then, for the same purpose,
the juices of leaves and berries, when these
are in season, and easily procured.
Since the visit of the Oneida squaws, several
other parties have been in the village.
The very next season a family of three generations
made their appearance at the door, claiming
an hereditary acquaintance with the master
of the house. They were much less wild than
our first visitors, having discarded the
blanket entirely,
and speaking English very well. The leader
and patriarch of the party bore a Dutch name,
given him, probably, by some of his friends
on the Mohawk Flats; and he was, moreover,
entitled to write Reverend before it, being
a Methodist ministerthe Rev. Mr. Kunkerpott.
He was notwithstanding a full-blooded Indian,
with the regular copper-colored complexion
and high cheekbones; the outline of his face
was decidedly Roman, and his long, gray hair
had a wave which is rare among his people;
the mouth, where the savage expression is
usually most strongly marked, was small,
with a kindly expression about it. Altogether
he was a strange mixture of the Methodist
preacher and the Indian patriarch. His son
was much more savage than himself in appearancea
silent, cold-looking man; and the grandson,
a boy of ten or twelve, was one of the most
uncouth, impish-looking creatures we ever
beheld. He wore a long-tailed coat twice
too large for him, with boots of the same
size, and he seemed particularly proud of
these last, looking at them from time to
time with great satisfaction , as he went
tottering along. The child's face was very
wild, and he was bareheaded, with an unusual
quantity of long, black hair streaming about
his head and shoulders. While the grandfather
was conversing about old times, the boy diverted
himself by twirling around on one leg, a
feat which would have seemed almost impossible,
booted as he was, but which he nevertheless
accomplished with remarkable dexterity, spinning
round and round, his arms extended, his large
black eyes staring stupidly before him, his
mouth open, and his long hair flying in every
direction, as wild a looking creature as
one could wish to see. We expected every
moment that he would fall breathless and
exhausted, like a dancing
dervish, supposing that the child had been
taught this accomplishment as a means of
pleasing his civilized friends; but no, he
was only amusing himself, and kept his footing
to the last.
Civilization, in its earliest approaches,
seems to produce a different effect upon
the men and the women, the former losing,
and the latter gaining by it. In the savage
state, the women appear inferior to the men,
but in a half-civilized condition, they
have much the advantage over the stronger
sex. They are rarely beautiful, but often
very pleasing; their gentle expression, meek
and subdued manner, low, musical voices,
and mild, dark eyes, excite an interest in
their favor, while one turns with pain and
disgust from the brutal, stupid, drunken
countenances too often seen among the men.
Many a young girl might be found to-day among
the half-civilized tribes, whose manner and
appearance would accord with one's idea of
the gentle Pocahontas; but it is rare, indeed,
that a man is seen among them who would make
a Powhattan, a Philip, or an Uncas. And
yet, unfavorable as their appearance is,
there are few even of the most degraded who,
when aroused, will not use the poetical,
figurative speech, and the dignified, impressive
gesture of their race. The contrast between
the degraded aspect they bear every day,
and these sudden instinctive flashes, is
very striking. Instances are not wanting,
however, in which men of purely Indian blood
have conquered the many obstacles in their
path, and now command the sympathy and respect
of their white brethren by the energy and
perseverance they have shown in mastering
a new position among civilized men.
The women either dislike to speak English,
or they are unable to do so, for they are
very laconic indeed in
conversation; many of them, although understanding
what is said, will only answer you by smiles
and signs; but as they do not aim as much
as the men at keeping up the cold dignity
of their race, this mute language is often
kindly and pleasing. Many of those who carry
about their simple wares for sale in the
neighborhood of their own villages would
be remarked for their amiable expression,
gentle manner, and low, musical voices.
They still carry their children tied up in
a blanket at their backs, supporting them
by a band passing round the forehead, which
brings the weight chiefly upon the head.
It is easy to wish these poor people well;
but surely something more may justly be required
of usof those who have taken their
country and their place on the earth. The
time seems at last to have come when their
own eyes are opening to the real good of
civilization, the advantages of knowledge,
the blessings of Christianity. Let us acknowledge
the strong claim they have upon us, not in
word only, but in deed also. The native
intellect of the red men who peopled this
part of America surpassed that of many other
races laboring under the curses of savage
life; they have shown bravery, fortitude,
religious feeling, eloquence, imagination,
quickness of intellect, with much dignity
of manner; and if we are true to our duty,
now at the moment when they are making of
their own accord a movement in the path of
improvement, perhaps the day may not be distant
when men of Indian blood may be numbered
among the wise and the good, laboring in
behalf of our common country.
It is painful, indeed, to remember how little
has yet been done for the Indian during the
three centuries since he and the white man
first met on the Atlantic
coast. But such is only the common course
of things; a savage race is almost invariable
corrupted rather than improved by its earliest
contact with a civilized people; they suffer
from the vices of civilization before they
learn justly to comprehend its merits. It
is with nations as with individualsamelioration
is a slow process, corruption a rapid one.
Wednesday, 18th.Warm, brilliant weather. Thermometer
89, with much dry air. Walked in the woods.
That ghost-like plant, the Indian-pipe, is
in flower, and quite common heresometimes
growing singly, more frequently several together.
The whole plant, about a span high, is entirely
colorless, looking very much as if it were
cut out of Derbyshire spar; the leaves are
replaced by white scales, but the flower
is large and perfect, and from the root upward,
it is wholly of untarnished white. One meets
with it from June until late in September;
at first, the flower is nodding, when it
really looks something like the cup of a
pipe; gradually, however, it erects itself
as the seed ripens, and turns black when
it decays. I have seen a whole cluster of
them bordered with blackin half-mourning,
as it werethough of a healthy white
within this line. It was probably some blight
which had affected them in this way.
The pretty little dew-drop, Dalibarda repens of botanists, is also in blossoma
delicate, modest little flower, opening singly
among dark green leaves, which look much
like those of the violet; it is one of our
most common wood-plants; the leaves frequently
remain green through the winter. The name
of the dew-drop has probably been given to
this flower from its blooming about the time
when the summer dews are the heaviest.
The one-sided wintergreen is also in blossom,
with its little greenish-white flowers all
turned in the same direction; it is one of
the commonest plants we tread under foot
in the forest. This is a wintergreen region,
all the varieties being found in this county.
Both the glossy pipsissima and the pretty
spotted wintergreen, with its variegated
leaves, are common here; so is the fragrant
shin-leaf; and the one-flowered pyrola, rare
in most parts of the country, is also found
in our woods.
Observed the yellow diervilla or bush-honeysuckle
still in flower. The hemlocks still show
the light green of their young shoots, which
grow dark very slowly.
Thursday, 19th.Warm, clear day; thermometer 88.
It happens that the few humble antiquities
of our neighborhood are all found lying together
near the outlet of the lake; they consist
of a noted rock, the ruins of a bridge, and
the remains of a military work.
The rock lies in the lake, a stone's throw
from the shore; it is a smooth, rounded fragment,
about four feet high; the waters sometimes,
in very warm seasons, leave it nearly dry,
but they have never, I believe, overflowed
it. There is nothing remarkable in the rock
itself, though it is perhaps the largest
of the few that show themselves above the
surface of our lake; but this stone is said
to have been a noted rallying-point with
the Indians, who were in the habit of appointing
meetings between different parties at this
spot. From the Mohawk country, from the
southern hunting-grounds on the banks of
Susquehannah, and from the Oneida region,
they came through the wilderness to this
common rendezvous at the gray rock, near
the outlet of the lake. Such is the tradition;
probably it is founded in truth, for it has
prevailed here since the settlement of the
country, and it is of a nature not likely
to have been thought of by a white man, who,
if given to inventing anything of the kind,
would have attempted something more ambitious.
Its very simplicity gives it weight, and
it is quite consistent with the habits of
the Indians, and their nice observation;
for the rock, though unimportant, is yet
the largest in sight, and its position near
the outlet would make it a very natural waymark
to them. Such as it is, this, moreover,
is the only tradition, in a positive form,
connected with the Indians preserved among
us; with this single exception, the red man
has left no mark here, on hill or dale, lake
or stream.
From tradition we step to something more
positive; from the dark ages we come to the
dawn of history. On the bank of the river
are found the ruins of a bridge, the first
made at this point by the white man. Among
the mountain streams of the Old World are
many high, narrow arches of stone, built
more than a thousand years since, still standing
to-day in different stages of picturesque
decay. Our ruins are more rude than these.
In the summer of 1786, a couple of emigrants,
father and son, arrived on the eastern bank
of the river, intending to cross it; there
was no village here thena single log-cabin
and a deserted block-house stood on the spot,
however, and they hoped to find at least
the shelter of walls and a roof. But there
was no bridge over the river, nor boat to
ferry them across: some persons, under such
circumstances, would have forded the stream;
others might have swum across; our emigrants
took a shorter coursethey made a bridge.
Each carried his axe, as usual, and choosing
one of the tall pines standing on the bank,
one of the old race which then filled the
whole valley, they soon felled the tree,
giving it such an inclination as threw it
across the channel, and their bridge was
builtthey crossed on the trunk. The
stump of that tree is still standing on the
bank among the few ruins we have to boast
of; it is fast mouldering away, but it has
outlasted the lives of both the men who felled
the treethe younger of the two, the
son, having died in advanced old age, a year
or two since.
The military work alluded to was on a greater
scale, and connected with an expedition of
some importance. In 1779, when General Sullivan
was ordered against the Indians in the western
part of the State, to punish them for the
massacres of Wyoming and Cherry Valley, a
detachment of his forces, under General Clinton,
was sent through this valley. Ascending
the Mohawk to what was sometimes called the
"portage" over the hills to this lake, they
cut a road through the forest, and transporting
their boats to our waters, launched them
at the head of the lake, and rowed down to
the site of the present village. Here they
lay encamped some little time, finding the
river too much encumbered with flood-wood
to allow their boats to pass. To remove
this difficulty, General Clinton ordered
a dam to be built at the outlet, thus raising
the lake so much, that when the work was
suddenly opened, the waters rushed through
with such power, that they swept the channel
clear; by this means, the troops were enabled
to pass in their boats from these very sources
of the stream to the rendezvous at Tioga
Point, a distance of more than two hundred
miles, by the course of this winding river.
This is the only incident which has connected
our secluded lake with historical events,
and it is believed that upon no other occasion
have troops, on a warlike errand, passed
through the valley. Probably in no other
instance have so large a
number of boats ever floated on our quiet
lake, and we can scarcely suppose that a
fleet of this warlike character will ever
again, to the end of time, be collected here.
Friday, 20th.Warm; thermometer 85, with high wind
from southward. Light sprinkling showers
through the day, barely enough to lay the
dust. No thunder or lightning.
The fire-flies flitting about this evening
in the rain; they do not mind a showery evening
much; we have often seen them of a rainy
night, carrying their little lanterns about
much unconcerned; it is only a hard and driving
shower which sends them home. These little
creatures seem to have favorite grounds;
there is a pretty valley in the county, about
twenty miles from us, where they are very
numerous; one sees them dancing over those
meadows in larger parties than about our
own.
Saturday, 21st.Fine weather; heat not so great; thermometer
77.
The northern lights are brilliant this evening;
for some months they have been less frequent
than usual. We have them, at intervals,
during all seasons.
Monday, 23d.Just at the point where the village
street becomes a road and turns to climb
the hillside, there stands a group of pines,
a remnant of the old forest. There are many
trees like these among the woods; far and
near such may be seen rising from the hills,
now tossing their arms in the stormy winds,
now drawn in still and dark relief against
the glowing evening sky. Their gaunt, upright
forms standing about the hill-tops, and the
ragged gray stumps of those which have fallen,
dotting the smooth fields, make up the sterner
touches in a scene whose general aspect is
smiling. But although these old trees are
common upon the wooded
heights, yet the group on the skirts of the
valley stands alone among the fields of the
valley; their nearer brethren have all been
swept away, and these are left in isolated
company, differing in character from all
about them, a monument of the past.
It is upon a narrow belt of land, a highway
and a corn-field on one side, a brook and
an orchard on the other, that these trees
are rooted; a strip of woodland connected
with the forest on the hills above, and suddenly
cut off where it approaches the first buildings
of the village. There they stand, silent
spectators of the wonderful changes that
have come over the valley. Hundreds of winters
have passed since the cones which contained
the seed of that grove fell from the parent
tree; centuries have elapsed since their
heads emerged from the topmost wave of the
sea of verdure to meet the sunshine, and
yet it is but yesterday that their shadows
first fell, in full length, upon the sod
at their feet.
Sixty years since, those trees belonged to
a wilderness; the bear, the wolf, and the
panther brushed their trunks; the ungainly
moose and the agile deer browsed at their
feet; the savage hunter crept stealthily
about their roots, and painted braves passed
noiselessly on the war-path beneath their
shade. How many successive generations of
the red man have trod the soil they overshadowed,
and then sat down in their narrow graveshow
many herds of wild creatures have chased
each other through that wood, and left their
bones to bleach among the fern and moss,
there is no human voice can tell. We only
know that the summer winds, when they filled
the canvas of Columbus and Cabot, three hundred
years ago, came sweeping over these forest
pines, murmuring then as we hear them murmur
to-day.
There is no record to teach us even the name
of the first white man who saw this sequestered
valley, with its limpid lake; it was probably
some bold hunter from the Mohawk, chasing
the deer, or in quest of the beaver. But
while towns were rising on the St. Lawrence
and upon the sea-board, this inland region
lay still unexplored; long after trading-houses
had been opened, and fields had been tilled,
and battles had been fought to the north,
south, east, ay, and even at many points
westward, those pines stood in the heart
of a silent wilderness. This, little lake
lay embedded in a forest until after the
great struggle of the Revolution was over.
A few months after the war was brought to
an honorable close, Washington made a journey
of observation among the inland waters of
this part of the country; writing to a friend
in France, he names this little lake, the
source of a river, which, four degrees farther
south, flows into the Chesapeake in near
neighborhood with his own Potomac. As he
passed along through a half-wild region,
where the few marks of civilization then
existing bore the blight of war, he conceived
the outline of many of those improvements
which have since been carried out by others,
and have yielded so rich a revenue of prosperity.
It is a pleasing reflection to those who
live here, that while many important places
in the country were never honored by his
presence, Washington has trod the soil about
our lake. But even at that late day, when
the great and good man came, the mountains
were still clothed in wood to the water's
edge, and mingled with giant oaks and ashes,
those tall pines waved above the valley.
At length, nearly three long centuries after
the Genoese had crossed the ocean, the white
man came to
plant a home on this spot, and it was then
the great change began; the axe and the saw,
the forge and the wheel, were busy from dawn
to dusk, cows and swine fed in thickets whence
the wild beasts had fled, while the ox and
the horse drew away in chains the fallen
trunks of the forest. The tenants of the
wilderness shrunk deeper within its bounds
with every changing moon; the wild creatures
fled away within the receding shades of the
forest, and the red man followed on their
track; his day of power was gone, his hour
of pitiless revenge had passed, and the last
echoes of the war-whoop were dying away forever
among these hills, when the pale-faces laid
their hearth-stones by the lake shore. The
red man, who for thousands of years had been
lord of the land, no longer treads the soil;
he exists here only in uncertain memories,
and in forgotten graves.
Such has been the change of the last half
century. Those who from childhood have known
the cheerful dwellings of the village, the
broad and fertile farms, the well beaten
roads, such as they are to-day, can hardly
credit that this has all been done so recently
by a band of men, some of whom, white-headed
and leaning on their staves, are still among
us. Yet such is the simple truth. This
village lies just on the borders of the tract
of country which was opened and peopled immediately
after the Revolution; it was among the earliest
of those little colonies from the sea-board
which struck into the wilderness at that
favorable moment, and whose rapid growth
and progress in civilization have become
a byword. Other places, indeed, have far
surpassed this quiet borough; Rochester,
Buffalo, and others of a later date, have
become great cities, while this remains a
rural village; still, whenever we pause to
recall what
has been done in this secluded valley during
the lifetime of one generation, we must needs
be struck with new astonishment. And throughout
every act of the work, those old pines were
there. Unchanged themselves, they stand
surrounded by objects over all of which a
great change has passed. The open valley,
the half-shorn hills, the paths, the flocks,
the buildings, the woods in their second
growth, even the waters in the different
images they reflect on their bosom, the very
race of men who come and go, all are different
from what they were; and those calm old trees
seem to heave the sigh of companionless age,
as their coned heads rock slowly in the winds.
The aspect of the wood tells its own history,
so widely does it differ in character from
the younger groves waving in gay luxuriance
over the valley. In the midst of smooth
fields it speaks so clearly of the wilderness,
that it is not the young orchard of yesterday's
planting, but the aged native pines which
seem the strangers on the ground. The pine
of forest growth never fails to have a very
marked character of its own; the gray shaft
rises clear and unbroken by bend or bough,
to more than half its great elevation, thence
short horizontal limbs in successive fan-like
growth surround the trunk to its summit,
which is often crowned with a low crest of
upright branches. The shaft is very fine
from its great height and the noble simplicity
of its lines; in coloring, it is a pure clear
gray, having the lightest and the smoothest
bark of all its tribe, and only occasionally
mottled with patches of lichens. The white
pine of this climate gathers but few mosses,
unless in very moist situations; the very
oldest trees are often quite free from them.
Indeed, this is a tree seldom seen with the
symptoms of a half-dead and decaying condition
about it, like so many others; the gray line
of a naked branch may be observed here and
there, perhaps, a sign of age, but it generally
preserves to the very last an appearance
of vigor, as though keeping death at bay
until struck to the heart, or laid low from
the roots. It is true, this appearance may
often prove deceptive; still, it is a peculiarity
of our pine, that it preserves its verdure
until the very last, unlike many other trees
which are seen in the forest, half green,
half gray, and lifeless.
The pine of the lawns or open groves and
the pine of the forest differ very strikingly
in outline; the usual pyramidal or conical
form of the evergreen is very faintly traced
on the short, irregular limbs of the forest
tree; but what is lost in luxuriance and
elegance is more than replaced by a peculiar
character of wild dignity, as it raises its
stern head high above the lesser wood, far
over-topping the proudest rank of oaks.
And yet, in their rudest shapes, they are
never harsh; as we approach them, we shall
always find something of the calm of age
and the sweetness of nature to soften their
aspect; there is a grace in the slow waving
of their limbs in the higher air, which never
fails; there is a mysterious melody in their
breezy murmurs; there is an emerald light
in their beautiful verdure, which lies in
unfading wreaths, fresh and clear, about
the heads of those old trees. The effect
of light and shade on the foliage of those
older forest pines is indeed much finer than
what we see among their younger neighbors;
the tufted branches, in their horizontal
growth, are beautifully touched with circlets
of a clear light, which is broken up and
lost amid the confused medley of branches
in trees of more upright growth. The long
brown cones are chiefly pendulous,
in clusters, from the upper branches; some
seasons they are so numerous on the younger
trees as to give their heads a decided brown
coloring.
The grove upon the skirts of the village
numbers, perhaps, some forty trees, varying
in their girth from five or six to twelve
feet; and in height, from a hundred and twenty
to a hundred and sixty feet. Owing to their
unscreened position and their height, these
trees may be clearly distinguished for miles,
whether from the lake, the hills, or the
roads about the countrya landmark overtopping
the humble church-spires, and every object
raised by man within the bounds of the valley.
Their rude simplicity of outline, the erect,
unbending trunks, their stern, changeless
character, and their scanty drapery of foliage,
unconsciously lead one to fancy them an image
of some band of savage chiefs, emerging in
a long, dark line from the glen in their
rear, and gazing in wonder upon their former
hunting-ground in its altered aspect.
It needs but a few short minutes to bring
one of these trees to the ground; the rudest
boor passing along the highway may easily
do the deed; but how many years must pass
ere its equal stand on the same spot! Let
us pause to count the days, the months, the
years; let us number the generations that
must come and go, the centuries that must
roll onward, ere the seed sown from this
year's cones shall produce a wood like that
before us. The stout arm so ready to raise
the axe to-day, must grow weak with age,
it must drop into the grave; its bone and
sinew must crumble into dust long before
another tree, tall and great as those, shall
have grown from the cone in our hand. Nay,
more, all the united strength of sinew, added
to all the powers of mind, and all the force
of will, of millions of men, can do no more
toward
the work than the poor ability of a single
arm; these are of the deeds which time alone
can perform. But allowing even that hundreds
of years hence other trees were at length
to succeed these with the same dignity of
height and age, no other younger wood can
ever claim the same connection as this, with
a state of things now passed away forever;
they cannot have that wild, stern character
of the aged forest pines. This little town
itself must fall to decay and ruin; its streets
must become choked with bushes and brambles;
the farms of the valley must be anew buried
within the shades of a wilderness; the wild
deer and the wolf and the bear must return
from beyond the great lakes; the bones of
the savage men buried under our feet must
arise and move again in the chase, ere trees
like those, with the spirit of the forest
in every line, can stand on the same ground
in wild dignity of form like those old pines
now looking down upon our homes.
Tuesday, 24th.Thermometer 84 in the shade at three
o'clock. Still, clear, and dry; the farmers
very anxious for rain.
Pleasant row in the afternoon; went down
the river. One cannot go far, as the mill-dam
blocks the way, but it is a pretty little
bit of stream for an evening row. So near
its source, the river is quite narrow, only
sixty or eighty feet in breadth. The water
is generally very clear, and of greenish
gray; after the spring thaws it sometimes
has a blueish tint, and late in autumn, after
heavy rains, it takes a more decided shade
of dark green. It is rarely turbid, and
never positively muddy. It has no great
depth, except in spots; there are some deep
places, however, well known to the boys of
the village for feats of diving performed
there, certain lads priding
themselves upon walking across the bed of
the river through those deep spots, while
others still more daring are said to have
actually played a game of "lap-stone," sitting
in what they call the "Deep Hole." In general,
the bottom is stony or muddy, but there are
reaches of sand also. The growth of aquatic
plants is thick in many places, and near
the bridge there is a fine patch of water-grasses,
which have a beautiful effect seen from above,
their long tufts floating gracefully in the
slow current of the stream, like the locks
of a troop of Mermaids. One of these plants,
by-the-bye, bears the name of the "Canadian
Water-Nymph;" but it is one of the homeliest
of its tribe; there are others much more
graceful to which the name would be better
adapted.
The older trees on the bank have long since
been cut away; but many young elms, maples,
ashes, amelanchiers, stand with their roots
washed by the water, while grape-vines and
Virginia creepers are climbing over them.
Wild cherries and plums also line the course
of our little river. Sallows and alders
form close thickets lower than the forest
trees. All our native willows on this continent
are small; the largest is the black willow,
with a dark bark, about five-and-twenty feet
high. It grows some miles farther down the
stream. Our alders also are mere bushes,
while the European alder is a full-sized
tree, tall as their elms or beeches.
Thursday, 6th.Most of the weeds which infest our
wheat-fields, come from the Old World,the
deceitful chess, the corn-cockle, the Canada-thistle,
tares, the voracious red-root, the blue-weed,
or bugloss, with others of the same kind.
There is, however, one brilliant but noxious
plant found among the corn-fields of Europe
which is not seen in our own, and that is
the gaudy red
poppy. Our farmers are no doubt very well
pleased to dispense with it; they are quite
satisfied with the weeds already naturalized.
But so common is the poppy in the Old World
that it is found everywhere in the corn-fields,
along the luxuriant shores of the Mediterranean,
upon the open, chequered plains of France
and Germany, and among the hedged fields
of England. The first wild poppies ever
seen by the writer were gathered by a party
of American children, about the ruins of
Netley Abbey, near Southampton, in England.
So common is this brilliant weed among the
European grain-fields, that there is a little
insect, an ingenious, industrious little
creature, who invariably employs it in building
her cell. This wild bee, called the upholsterer
bee, from its habits, leads a solitary life,
but she takes a vast deal of pains in behalf
of her young. About the time when the wild
poppy begins to blossom, this little insect
flies into a corn-field, looks out for a
dry spot of ground, usually near some path-way;
here she bores a hole about three inches
in depth, the lower portion being wider than
the mouth; and quite a toil it must be to
so small a creature to make the excavation;
it is very much as if a man were to clear
out the cellars for a large house with his
hands only. But this is only the beginning
of her task; when the cell is completed,
she then flies away to the nearest poppy,
which, as she very well knows, cannot be
very far off in a corn-field; she cuts out
a bit of the scarlet flower, carries it to
the nest, and spreads it out on the floor
like a carpet; again she returns to the blossom
and brings home another piece, which she
lays over the first; when the floor is covered
with several layers of this soft scarlet
carpeting, she proceeds to line the sides
throughout in the same way, until the
whole is well surrounded with these handsome
hangings. This brilliant cradle she makes
for one little bee, laying only a single
egg amid the flower-leaves. Honey and bee-bread
are then collected and piled up to the height
of an inch; and when this store is completed,
the scarlet curtains are drawn close over
the whole, and the cell is closed, the careful
mother replacing the earth as neatly as possible,
so that after she has finally smoothed the
spot over, it is difficult to discover a
cell you may have seen open the day before.
This constant association with the wheat,
which even the insects have learned by instinct,
has not remained unheeded by man. Owing
to this connection with the precious grain,
the poppy of the Old World received, ages
ago, all the honors of a classical flower,
and became blended with the fables of ancient
mythology; not only was it given to the impersonation
of Sleep, as one of its emblems, from the
well-known narcotic influences of the plant,
but it was also considered as sacred to one
of the most ancient and most important deities
of the system; the very oldest statues of
Ceres represent her with poppies in her garlands,
blended with ears of wheat, either carried
in her hand, or worn on her head. The ancient
poets mingled the ears of wheat and poppy
in their verses: "The meanest cottager
His poppy grows among the corn,"
says Cowley, in his translation of Virgil;
and in our own day Mr. Hood, in his pleasing
picture of Ruth, introduces both plants,
when describing her beautiful color:
"And on her cheek an autumn flush,
Like poppies grown with corn."
In short, so well established is this association
of the
poppy and wheat, by the long course of observation
from time immemorial to the present season,
that the very modistes of Paris, when they wish to trim a straw
bonnet with field plants, are careful to
mingle the poppy with heads of wheat in their
artificial flowers. Fickle Fashion herself
is content to leave these plants, year after
year, entwined together in her wreaths.
But in spite of this general prevalence of
the poppy throughout the grain-fields of
the Old World, and its acknowledged claim
to a place beside the wheat, it is quite
unknown here as a weed. With us this constant
association is broken up. Never having seen
it ourselves, we have frequently asked farmers
from different parts of the country if they
had ever found it among their wheat, and
thus far the answer has always been the same;
they had never seen the flower out of gardens.
Among our cottage gardens it is very common.
It must be the comparative severity of the
winters which has broken up this very ancient
connection in our part of the world; and
yet they have at times very severe seasons
in France and Germany, without destroying
the field poppies.
Friday, 27th.Cooler; a refreshing shower last evening;
no thunder or lightning.
The butterflies are very numerous now; tortoise-shell,
black, and yellow, with here and there a
blue; large parties of the little white kind,
and the tiny tortoise-shell, also, are fluttering
about the weeds. The yellow butterflies
with their pink markings are the most common
here; they are regular roadsters, constantly
seen on the highway. Last summer about this
time, while driving between Penn-Yan and
Seneca Lake, we found these little creatures
more numerous than we had ever yet seen
them; there had been a heavy rain the day
before, and there were many half-dried, muddy
pools along the road, which seemed to attract
these butterflies more than the flowers in
the meadows; they are always found hovering
over such a spot in summer; but on that occasion
we saw so many that we attempted to count
them, and in half a mile we passed seventy,
so that in the course of a drive of a couple
of hours we probably saw more than a thousand
of these pretty creatures strung along the
highway in little flocks.
There is a singular insect of this tribe,
a kind of moth, seen about the flower-beds
in the summer months. They are so much like
humming-birds in their movements, that many
of the country people consider them as a
sort of cousin-german of our common rubythroat.
We have been repeatedly asked if we had seen
these "small humming-birds." Their size,
the bird-like form of their body and tail,
the rapid quivering motion of their wings,
their habit of feeding on the wing instead
of alighting on the flowers, are indeed strangely
like the humming-bird. Nevertheless, these
are true moths, and there are, I believe,
several species of them flitting about our
meadows and gardens. The common green potato,
or tobacco-worm, is said to become a moth
of this kind; and the whole tribe of hawk-moths
are now sometimes called humming-bird moths,
from these same insects. They are not peculiar
to this country, but are well-known also
in Europe, though not very common there.
Altogether, they are singular little creatures;
their tongues, with which they extract the
honey from the flowers, just as the humming-bird
does, are in some cases remarkably long,
even longer than their bodies. One of the
tribe is said to have a tongue six inches
in length, and it coils it up like a watch-spring,
when not using it.
Saturday, 28th.Passed the afternoon in the woods.
What a noble gift to man are the forests!
What a debt of gratitude and admiration we
owe for their utility and their beauty!
How pleasantly the shadows of the wood fall
upon our heads, when we turn from the glitter
and turmoil of the world of man! The winds
of heaven seem to linger amid these balmy
branches, and the sunshine falls like a blessing
upon the green leaves; the wild breath of
the forest, fragrant with bark and berry,
fans the brow with grateful freshness; and
the beautiful wood-light, neither garish
nor gloomy, full of calm and peaceful influences,
sheds repose over the spirit. The view is
limited, and the objects about us are uniform
in character; yet within the bosom of the
woods the mind readily lays aside its daily
littleness, and opens to higher thoughts,
in silent consciousness that it stands alone
with the works of God. The humble moss beneath
our feet, the sweet flowers, the varied shrubs,
the great trees, and the sky gleaming above
in sacred blue, are each the handiwork of
God. They were all called into being by
the will of the Creator, as we now behold
them, full of wisdom and goodness. Every
object here has a deeper merit than our wonder
can fathom; each has a beauty beyond our
full perception; the dullest insect crawling
about these roots lives by the power of the
Almighty; and the discolored shreds of last
year's leaves wither away upon the lowly
herbs in a blessing of fertility. But it
is the great trees, stretching their arms
above us in a thousand forms of grace and
strength, it is more especially the trees
which fill the mind with wonder and praise.
Of the infinite variety of fruits which
spring from the bosom of the earth, the trees
of the wood are the greatest in dignity.
Of all the works of the creation which know
the changes of life and death, the trees
of the forest have the longest existence.
Of all the objects which crown the gray earth,
the woods preserve unchanged, throughout
the greatest reach of time, their native
character: the works of man are every varying
their aspect; his towns and his fields alike
reflect the unstable opinions, the fickle
wills and fancies of each passing generation;
but the forests on his borders remain to-day
the same they were ages of years since.
Old as the everlasting hills, during thousands
of seasons they have put forth and laid down
their verdure in calm obedience to the decree
which first bade them cover the ruins of
the Deluge.
But, although the forests are great and old,
yet the ancient trees within their bounds
must each bend individually beneath the doom
of every earthly existence; they have their
allotted period when the mosses of Time gather
upon their branches; when, touched by decay,
they break and crumble to dust. Like man,
they are decked in living beauty; like man,
they fall a prey to death; and while we admire
their duration, so far beyond our own brief
years, we also acknowledge that especial
interest which can only belong to the graces
of life and to the desolation of death.
We raise our eyes, and we see collected in
one company vigorous trunks, the oak, the
ash, the pine, firm in the strength of maturity;
by their side stand a young group, elm, and
birch, and maple, their supple branches playing
in the breezes, gay and fresh as youth itself;
and yonder, rising in unheeded gloom, we
behold a skeleton trunk, an old fir, every
branch broken, every leaf fallen,dull,
still, sad, like the finger of Death.
It is the peculiar nature of the forest,
that life and death may ever be found within
its bounds, in immediate presence of each
other; both with ceaseless, noiseless advances,
aiming at the mastery; and if the influences
of the first be most general, those of the
last are the most striking. Spring, with
all her wealth of life and joy, finds within
the forest many a tree unconscious of her
approach; a thousand young plants springing
up about the fallen trunk, the shaggy roots,
seek to soften the gloomy wreck with a semblance
of the verdure it bore of old; but ere they
have thrown their fresh and graceful wreaths
over the mouldering wood, half their own
tribe wither and die with the year. We owe
to this perpetual presence of death an impression,
calm, solemn, almost religious in character,
a chastening influence, beyond what we find
in the open fields. But this subdued spirit
is far from gloomy or oppressive, since it
never fails to be relieved by the cheerful
animation of living beauty. Sweet flowers
grow beside the fallen trees, among the shattered
branches, the season through; and the freedom
of the woods, the unchecked growth, the careless
position of every tree, are favorable to
a thousand wild beauties, and fantastic forms,
opening to the mind a play of fancy which
is in itself cheering and enlivening, like
the bright sunbeams which checker with golden
light the shadowy groves. That character
of rich variety also, stamped on all the
works of the creation, is developed in the
forest in clear and noble forms; we are told
that in the field we shall not find two blades
of grass exactly alike, that in the garden
we shall not gather two flowers precisely
similar, but in those cases the lines are
minute, and we do not seize the truth at
once; in the woods, however, the same fact
stands recorded in bolder
lines; we cannot fail to mark this great
variety of detail among the trees; we see
it in their trunks, their branches, their
foliage; in the rude knots, the gnarled roots;
in the mosses and lichens which feed upon
their bark; in their forms, their coloring,
their shadows. And within all this luxuriance
of varied beauty, there dwells a sweet quiet,
a noble harmony, a calm repose, which we
seek in vain elsewhere, in so full a measure.
These hills, and the valleys at their feet,
lay for untold centuries one vast forest;
unnumbered seasons, ages of unrecorded time
passed away while they made part of the boundless
wilderness of woods. The trees waved over
the valleys, they rose upon the swelling
knolls, they filled the hollows, they crowded
the narrow glens, they shaded the brooks
and springs, they washed their roots in the
lakes and rivers, they stood upon the islands,
they swept over the broad hills, they crowned
the heads of all the mountains. The whole
land lay slumbering in the twilight of the
forest. Wild dreams made up its half-conscious
existence. The hungry cry of the beast of
prey, or the fierce deed of savage man, whoop
and dance, triumph and torture, broke in
fitful bursts upon the deep silence, and
then died away, leaving the breath of life
to rise and fall with the passing winds.
Every rocky cliff on the hillside, every
marshy spot on the lowlands, was veiled in
living, rustling folds of green. Here a
dark wave of pine, hemlock, and balsam ran
through a ravine, on yonder knoll shone the
rich glossy verdure of oak, and maple, and
chestnut; upon the breast of the mountain
stood the birch, the elm, and the aspen,
in light and airy tufts. Leaves of every
tint of green played in the summer sunshine,
leaves fluttered in the moonlight, and the
showers of heaven fell everywhere upon the
green leaves of the unbroken forest.
Sixty years have worked a wonderful change;
the forest has fallen upon the lowlands,
and there is not a valley about us which
has not been opened. Another half century
may find the country bleak and bare; but
as yet the woods have not all been felled,
and within the circle which bounds our view,
there is no mountain which has been wholly
shorn, none presents a bald front to the
sky; upon the lake shore, there are several
hills still wrapped in wood from the summit
to the base. He who takes pleasure in the
forest, by picking his way, and following
a winding course, may yet travel many a long
mile over a shady path, such as the red man
loved.
The forest lands of America preserve to the
present hour something that is characteristic
of their wild condition, undisturbed for
ages. They abound in ruins of their own.
Old trees, dead and dying, are left standing
for years, until at length they are shivered
and broken by the winds, or they crumble
slowly away to a shapeless stump. There
was no forester at hand to cut them down
when the first signs of decay appeared; they
had no uses then, now they have no value.
Broken limbs and dead bodies of great trees
lie scattered through the forests; there
are spots where the winds seem to have battled
with the woodsat every step one treads
on fallen trunks, stretched in giant length
upon the earth, this still clad in its armor
of bark, that bare and mouldering, stained
by green mildew, one a crumbling mass of
fragments, while others, again, lie shrouded
in beautiful mosses, long green hillocks
marking the grave of trees slowly turning
to dust. Young trees are frequently found
growing upon these forest ruins; if a giant
pine or oak has been levelled by some storm,
the mass of matted roots and earth will stand
upright for years in the same
position into which it was raised by the
falling trunk, and occasionally a good-sized
hemlock, or pine, or beech, is seen growing
from the summit of the mass, which in itself
is perhaps ten or twelve feet high. We have
found a stout tree of perhaps twenty years'
growth, which has sprung from a chance seed,
sown by the winds on the prostrate trunk
of a fallen pine or chestnut, growing until
its roots have stretched down the side of
the mouldering log, and reached the earth
on both sides, thus holding the crumbling
skeleton firmly in its young embrace. The
decay of these dead trees is strangely slow;
prostrate pines have been known to last fifty
years, undecayed, still preserving their
sap; and upright gray shafts often remain
standing for years, until one comes to know
them as familiarly as the living trees.
Instances are on record where they have thus
remained erect in death for a space of forty
years. Amid this wild confusion, we note here and
there some mark left by civilized man; the
track of wheels, a rude road sprinkled over
by withered leaves, or the mark of the axe,
sharp and clean, upon a stump close at hand,
reminding us how freely and how richly the
forest contributes to the wants of our race.
Perhaps two-fifths of the woods in our neighborhood
are evergreens, chiefly pine and hemlock;
the proportion varies, however, in different
spots; occasionally you see a whole mountain-side
dark with hemlock and pine, while other hills,
again, are almost entirely covered with deciduous
trees; more frequently, they are pleasingly
mingled in the same wood. Both hemlock and
pine grow in all positions, upon the hills,
in the
valleys, in dry soils, and upon the banks
of the streams. The balsam is less common,
generally found in marshy spots, in company
with its kinsman, the tamarack, which in
summer, at least, has all the appearance
of an evergreen. The balsam is a beautiful
tree; though not aspiring to the dignity
of the pine and hemlock, it shoots up in
the most perfect and gradual spire-like form,
to a height of thirty or forty feet, remarkable
for its elegance; the foliage is very rich
in color and quantity. It seems to delight
in throwing its image into the pools and
tarns about our hills, often standing on
their banks, tinging the waters with its
own dark green. There is no cedar very near
us; the white cedar, or cypress, is found
about eight or nine miles to the northward,
and still farther in that direction it is
very abundant, but along the course of the
river, southward from the lake, to a distance
of more than a hundred miles, we do not remember
to have seen it. We have also but one pine,
though that one is the chief of its family;
the noble white pine, the pride of the Alleghanies;
neither the yellow, the pitch, nor the red
pine is known here, so far as one can discover.
It has been thought by some of our neighbors
that the evergreens diminish in numbers as
the old woods are cut away, the deciduous
trees gaining upon them; but looking about
at the young thrifty groves of pine seen
in every direction, there does not seem much
reason to fear that they will disappear.
They shoot up even in the cleared fields,
here and there, and we have observed in several
instances that in spots where old pine woods
had been cut down, close thickets of young
trees of the same kind have succeeded them.
The oak of several varieties, white, black,
the scarlet, and the red; the beech, the
chestnut; black and white
ashes, the lime or bass-wood; the white and
the slippery elms; the common aspen, the
large-leaved aspen; the downy-leaved poplar,
and the balm of Gilead poplar; the white,
the yellow, and the black birches, are all
very common. The sumach and the alder abound
everywhere. But the glossy leaves of the
maple are more numerous than any others,
if we include the whole family, and with
the exception of the western or ash-leaved
maple, they all grow here, from the fine
sugar maple to the dwarf mountain maple:
including them all, then, perhaps they number
two for one of any other deciduous tree found
here. They sow themselves very freely; in
the spring one finds the little seedling
maples coming up everywhere. With the exception
of the chestnut, the nut trees are not so
very common; yet the hickory is not rare,
and both the black walnut and the butternut
are met with. The sycamore, very abundant
to the north of us, on the Mohawk, is rare
here; it is found on the banks of a little
stream two or three miles to the southward,
and that is the only spot in the neighborhood
where it has been observed. The pepperidge
or sour-gum is found here and there only.
The tulip-tree, abundant in most parts of
the country, has not been seen within fifteen
miles of the lake. The sweet-gum, or liquid-amber,
is unknown here. The sassafras also, is
a stranger with us. That beautiful shrub,
the laurel, so very common on the Hudson,
is missed here; it grows in the county, but
sparingly. The handsome flowering dog-wood,
so ornamental to the forests in other parts
of the State, is also rare in this neighborhood.
The finest trees about the banks of our lake
are remarkable rather for their height than
their girth. Belonging to the old forest
race, they have been closely pressed on all
sides by their fellows, and the trunks rise
in a branchless shaft to a commanding height;
their foliage crowns the summit in full masses,
and if never devoid of the native graces
of each species, still it has not all the
beauty developed by the free growth of the
open fields. The older ashes, elms, and
oaks are striking trees, much more stern
and simple than their brethren of the lawns
and meadows, all bearing the peculiar character
of forest growth. The younger tribe of the
woods, from the same cause which gives a
stern simplicity to their elders, become,
on the other hand, even more light and airy
than their fellows in the open ground; shaded
by the patriarchs of the forest, they shoot
up toward the light in slender gracile stems,
throwing out their branches in light and
airy spray. So slight and supple are the
stems of this younger race, that trees of
thirty and forty, ay, even fifty feet in
height, often bend low beneath the weight
of the winter's snow upon their naked branches;
some of them never regain their upright position,
others gradually resume it as their trunks
gain strength. Upon a wild wood-road near
the lake shore there is a natural green archway,
formed in this manner by two tall young trees
accidentally bending towards each other from
opposite sides of the road, until their branches
meet over the track; the effect is very pretty,
one of those caprices of the forest world
which in older times might have passed for
the work of some elfin wood-man.
It is to be feared that few among the younger
generation now springing up will ever attain
to the dignity of the old forest trees.
Very large portions of these woods are already
of a second growth, and trees of the greatest
size are becoming every year more rare.
It quite often
happens that you come upon old stumps of
much larger dimensions than any living trees
about them; some of these are four, and a
few five feet or more in diameter. Occasionally,
we still find a pine erect of this size;
one was felled the other day, which measured
five feet in diameter. There is an elm about
a mile from the village seventeen feet in
girth, and not long since we heard of a bass-wood
or linden twenty-eight feet in circumference.
But among the trees now standing, even those
which are sixty or eighty feet in height,
many are not more than four, or five, or
six feet in girth. The pines, especially,
reach a surprising elevation for their bulk.
As regards the ages of the larger trees,
one frequently finds stumps about two hundred
years old; those of three hundred are not
rare, and occasionally we have seen one which
we believed to claim upward of four hundred
rings. But as a rule, the largest trees
are singled out very early in the history
of a settlement, and many of these older
stumps of the largest size have now become
so worn and ragged, that it is seldom one
can count the circles accurately. They are
often injured by fire immediately after the
tree has been felled, and in many other instances
decay has been at work at the heart, and
one cannot, perhaps, count more than half
the rings; measuring will help, in such cases,
to give some idea; by taking fifty rings
of the sound part, and allowing the same
distance of the decayed portion for another
fifty. But this is by no means a sure way,
since the rings vary much in the same tree,
some being so broad that they must have sensibly
increased the circumference of the tree in
one year, to the extant, perhaps, of an inch,
while in other parts of the same shaft you
will find a dozen circles crowded into that
space. In short, it is seldom one has the
satisfaction of meeting with a stump in which
one may count every ring with perfect accuracy.
It is said that some of the pines on the
Pacific coast, those of Oregon and California,
have numbered nine hundred rings; these were
the noble Lambert pines of that region.
Probably very few of our own white pines
can show more than half that number of circles.
It is often said, as an excuse for leaving
none standing, that these old trees of forest
growth will not live after their companions
have been felled; they miss the protection
which one gives to another, and exposed to
the winds, soon fall to the ground. As a
general rule, this may be true; but one is
inclined to believe that if the experiment
of leaving a few were more frequently tried,
it would often prove successful. There is
an elm of great size now standing entirely
alone in a pretty field of the valley, its
girth, its age, and whole appearance declaring
it a chieftain of the ancient racethe
"Sagamore elm," as it is calledand
in spite of complete exposure to the winds
from all quarters of the heavens, it maintains
its place firmly. The trunk measures seventeen
feet in circumference, and it is thought
to be a hundred feet in height; but this
is only from the eye, never having been accurately
ascertained. The shaft rises perhaps fifty
feet without a branch, before it divides,
according to the usual growth of old forest
trees. Unfortunately, gray branches are
beginning to show among its summer foliage,
and it is to be feared that it will not outlast
many winters more.
In these times, the hewers of wood are an
unsparing race. The first colonists looked
upon a tree as an enemy, and to judge from
appearances, one would think that something
of the same spirit prevails among their descendants
at the present hour. It is not surprising,
perhaps, that a man whose chief object in
life is to make money should turn his timber
into bank-notes with all possible speed;
but it is remarkable that any one at all
aware of the value of wood, should act so
wastefully as most men do in this part of
the world. Mature trees, young saplings,
and last year's seedlings, are all destroyed
at one blow by the axe or by fire; the spot
where they have stood is left, perhaps, for
a lifetime without any attempt at cultivation,
or any endeavor to foster new wood. One
would think that by this time, when the forest
has fallen in all the valleyswhen the
hills are becoming more bare every daywhen
timber and fuel are rising in prices, and
new uses are found for even indifferent woodssome
forethought and care in this respect would
be natural in people laying claim t |